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on Wednesday, March 31st, 2010 at 10:36 pm and is filed under Rock Climbing Videos.
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Tagged as:climbing, Rock, roofs, Training
in most cases neil is right. However sometimes u need to be quick and dynamic to beat getting pumped out. Also when being dynamic you get more adrenaline which helps you push through uber hard moves. Everyone has different body types and different techniques that work for them. Dave Graham is techy and Chris Sharma is dynamic, but both climb around the same grade.
while you’re right about needing power, it’s much more crucial to learn to save your energy and complete most sections without going to dynos and power moves. If you don’t climb smart through most of the route, you won’t have any power at the crux when you need it.
climbers are too struck on slow boring sensible climbing, what happens when you are looking a huge dynamic movement on a real face with smears for foot holds and you haven’t got the power- look at chris sharma- he climbs on tiny hold with no feet all the time- as you say a time and a place and needs must- THERE ARE NO RULES thats why climbing is so fun!!
big loophole in his whole teaching philosophy… what if there is no arette? if there was no arette there she wouldn’t have spotted that heel hook and had perfect body tension. her feet would’ve cut unless there was a hold there. plus any idiot would’ve spotted that “crucial heel hook” is that how you spell arette?
And btw your totally wrong about static and dynam. Static spreads the load and you will climb longer if you can get away with using it all the time. Unless your in some kind of race with friends then i dont see why you would want to dyno everything. Yrah you may do 2 routes in the time she done 1 but i bet she ends up doing double you do over a period of time
on a 1 time climb do all the pul ups you want.. bet every peny in my bank account that if they ran that rout over and over he would melt long befor her.
If u do it static your taking more time and using more energy because your using more muscle groups. If you do it dynamic its faster and your using specific muscle groups. Being dynamic is also really committing and get the adrenalin flowing which will help u to pull through the next moves. I think theres a time and place for both approaches.
some people are saying theyd do it out doors
but i ONLY climb out doors and that never
happens9/10 all u get is a undercling
or u just have to reach on top of the roof.
so this video is strickly for indoor
climbing purposes
I agree with Tiki1597, but would like to add that the stretch clip is not “wrong”. That may be the only option due to what good holds you have. There is no reason why you cant make that type of clip and then find the toe/heel hooks she did.
I’ve climbed problems where my body type made it easier to campus moves than to use the available feet, but this advice will be solid 9 times out of 10. Especially the bit about clipping. If you are regularly campusing moves for reasons other than training, then you’re not climbing as well as you could.
[...] is the original post: rock climbing training on roofs | Arkansas Climbing Posted in Uncategorized | Tags: climbing, entry, posted-on-wednesday, wednesday, [...]
good advice in this situation, but sometimes i like to have a little fun at the price of the little extra bit of wasted energy, just think of it as a way of strength training, but i would totally agree if it was a real rock… which it isn’t
March 31st, 2010 at 10:55 pm
in most cases neil is right. However sometimes u need to be quick and dynamic to beat getting pumped out. Also when being dynamic you get more adrenaline which helps you push through uber hard moves. Everyone has different body types and different techniques that work for them. Dave Graham is techy and Chris Sharma is dynamic, but both climb around the same grade.
March 31st, 2010 at 11:00 pm
while you’re right about needing power, it’s much more crucial to learn to save your energy and complete most sections without going to dynos and power moves. If you don’t climb smart through most of the route, you won’t have any power at the crux when you need it.
You’re absolutely right though, no rules.
Cheers
March 31st, 2010 at 11:09 pm
climbers are too struck on slow boring sensible climbing, what happens when you are looking a huge dynamic movement on a real face with smears for foot holds and you haven’t got the power- look at chris sharma- he climbs on tiny hold with no feet all the time- as you say a time and a place and needs must- THERE ARE NO RULES thats why climbing is so fun!!
April 1st, 2010 at 12:05 am
@Twoplusfouris7 funner: maybe Less difficult: definitely not!
April 1st, 2010 at 12:48 am
I agree … and no mention of flagging under the roof, or drop knees
April 1st, 2010 at 1:05 am
Although you’re right, you sound rediculous.
April 1st, 2010 at 1:41 am
climbing makes the female body look amazing
April 1st, 2010 at 2:13 am
big loophole in his whole teaching philosophy… what if there is no arette? if there was no arette there she wouldn’t have spotted that heel hook and had perfect body tension. her feet would’ve cut unless there was a hold there. plus any idiot would’ve spotted that “crucial heel hook” is that how you spell arette?
April 1st, 2010 at 3:12 am
Different strokes for Different folks..
April 1st, 2010 at 3:48 am
And btw your totally wrong about static and dynam. Static spreads the load and you will climb longer if you can get away with using it all the time. Unless your in some kind of race with friends then i dont see why you would want to dyno everything. Yrah you may do 2 routes in the time she done 1 but i bet she ends up doing double you do over a period of time
April 1st, 2010 at 4:12 am
on a 1 time climb do all the pul ups you want.. bet every peny in my bank account that if they ran that rout over and over he would melt long befor her.
April 1st, 2010 at 4:33 am
I reckon his way was way funner and looked less hard.
April 1st, 2010 at 4:45 am
If u do it static your taking more time and using more energy because your using more muscle groups. If you do it dynamic its faster and your using specific muscle groups. Being dynamic is also really committing and get the adrenalin flowing which will help u to pull through the next moves. I think theres a time and place for both approaches.
April 1st, 2010 at 4:45 am
I think its the outdoor section of the Westway climbing centre in London
April 1st, 2010 at 5:10 am
some people are saying theyd do it out doors
but i ONLY climb out doors and that never
happens9/10 all u get is a undercling
or u just have to reach on top of the roof.
so this video is strickly for indoor
climbing purposes
April 1st, 2010 at 5:48 am
I agree with Tiki1597, but would like to add that the stretch clip is not “wrong”. That may be the only option due to what good holds you have. There is no reason why you cant make that type of clip and then find the toe/heel hooks she did.
April 1st, 2010 at 6:28 am
i know right i want to go there
April 1st, 2010 at 7:15 am
does anyone know where that climbing wall is? it just looks interesting.
April 1st, 2010 at 7:45 am
I’ve climbed problems where my body type made it easier to campus moves than to use the available feet, but this advice will be solid 9 times out of 10. Especially the bit about clipping. If you are regularly campusing moves for reasons other than training, then you’re not climbing as well as you could.
April 1st, 2010 at 2:54 am
[...] is the original post: rock climbing training on roofs | Arkansas Climbing Posted in Uncategorized | Tags: climbing, entry, posted-on-wednesday, wednesday, [...]
April 1st, 2010 at 8:00 am
neil gresham will never look cool
April 1st, 2010 at 8:02 am
yeah the ‘wrong’ way looked way more fun. Don’t you ever enjoy just cutting free sometimes on roofs? I’m all for technique but its fun to mix it up.
April 1st, 2010 at 8:44 am
more of these please!
April 1st, 2010 at 9:41 am
good advice in this situation, but sometimes i like to have a little fun at the price of the little extra bit of wasted energy, just think of it as a way of strength training, but i would totally agree if it was a real rock… which it isn’t
April 1st, 2010 at 10:21 am
wtf!
April 1st, 2010 at 10:58 am
not to mention you have to get creative because there is nothing saying whats a hold whats not, and you cant always easily spot them.