Indoor Rock Climbing Techniques : How to Tie Figure 8 Knots for Indoor Rock Climbing
June 22nd, 2010 by Nick Taylor | Print
Learn how to tie the figure 8 knot for rock climbing in this free indoor rock climbing video lesson. Expert: escalador Contact: www.Dannylogan.com Bio: Daniel Logan is an expert Rock Climber. While growing up he spent a lot of time in the outdoors. Filmmaker: Josh Wolstenholme
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June 22nd, 2010 at 6:21 am
@heathenwalking I find there is no vids on youtube with a full 5 stars cause they all seem to have flaws, dya know of a place on the net that has proper sound info? Not lookin for a substitute for lessons but a reference site would be handy. Thanks…
June 22nd, 2010 at 7:00 am
He probably learned this knot in bounty hunter training.
June 22nd, 2010 at 7:21 am
idiot! you are clearly a cunt. I know a John Smith and he looks nothing like the John Smith from New York.
Cunt.
June 22nd, 2010 at 7:46 am
The knot you held up and said was a typical knot laying around WAS the figure 8knot. You demonstrated a figure 8 follow through or retraced.
June 22nd, 2010 at 8:35 am
the bottom of your rope is broke it needs recut
June 22nd, 2010 at 9:17 am
goes tooo fast!
June 22nd, 2010 at 9:32 am
To: tekphnxDo you even know who Daniel Logan is he played as 12 year old Boba Fette in Star Wars Episode II you estupido!!!!
June 22nd, 2010 at 10:20 am
moron…
June 22nd, 2010 at 11:13 am
It isn’t bad. I’d be happy to climb on that. How ever this only applies in the gym, If that rope was wet or icy I wouldn’t be happy about it. I’d want to have a stopper with a good tail. It is never really stated that it should only go for the gym.
June 22nd, 2010 at 11:58 am
“It’s not necessary, it’s just for safety.”
June 22nd, 2010 at 12:48 pm
…can untie itself under normal use. I would suggest that a backup for the bowline variations is a very good idea, though not everyone agrees it’s necessary.
The bowline is also a little bit weaker than the figure eight, but the difference is so slim that you’d never hit it without a nasty lead whipper (i.e. not a gym climb).
Of course, YMMV with all of this advice; I’m not that experienced climbing, but I have done a bit, and I’ve read a *ton* on this sort of thing recently.
June 22nd, 2010 at 12:55 pm
4) Variations on the bowline are an acceptable tie-in knot, and there are some somewhat reputable sources that recommend it over the figure eight. (See, e.g., the double bowline and the bowline with a Yosemite finish.) The principle benefit is that the figure eight can become very difficult to untie after being loaded, while the bowline doesn’t suffer this problem.
The bowline’s principle drawback is that, while it remains a solid knot under continued tension, there is some concern that it…
June 22nd, 2010 at 1:38 pm
3) I’ve never heard of rethreading the figure eight from the top (i.e. from the end that goes to the top of the wall). Not only do I not know that such a knot would be secure, I have reason to believe that it wouldn’t be. I would not climb on such a knot, and would not belay someone who tied in with one.
The load on the knot if you were to do this is the same as if you ring-loaded a correctly tied retraced figure eight, and is a failure mode of the knot.
June 22nd, 2010 at 2:25 pm
Wow, so much misinformation in the comments here.
1) The figure eight in the video is fine. A little more tail would be better, especially for beginners, but there’s no question I’d take almost any top rope fall on that knot he tied.
2) He is correct that a safety knot isn’t really needed. The figure eight is plenty secure enough on its own — if you have enough tail to tie a safety knot, you don’t need to do so. (That said, tying a safety knot makes sure you have enough to tie a safety knot.)
June 22nd, 2010 at 3:19 pm
well im not really sure what you mean, but ussually you follow the 1st figure 8 knot from the bottom to top… did that answer your question
June 22nd, 2010 at 3:41 pm
where is this gym?
June 22nd, 2010 at 4:18 pm
god what a turd
June 22nd, 2010 at 4:57 pm
Thanks for the video bro…guys pls advise whioch is batter?..whether to tie the 2nd 8 knot from the top to botom or bottom to top?..
Thnaks…
June 22nd, 2010 at 5:29 pm
wow. I’d get kicked out of my gym if I tried tying a figure 8 like that.
June 22nd, 2010 at 5:59 pm
Bullshit.
June 22nd, 2010 at 6:02 pm
a single bowline can come undone when not loaded, using a double bowline with the tail tucked back out through “the hole” and secured with a double fishermans around “the tree” is completly safe and will be easy to untie after any number of big falls. more complicated and harder to check if you are not familiar but a great knot when required
June 22nd, 2010 at 6:25 pm
Becuase bowlines can come undone fairly easily. For the people saying you go from top to bottom have fun flipping if you ever take a lead fall. For once this guy is right. You go bottom to top. Also in almost every gym they require the tie off half fishermens knot. It just makes it extra safe.
June 22nd, 2010 at 6:56 pm
Bowlines are prone to slipping when wet, and more suited for quick situations, like an emergency loop for retrieval. If you have time you should always go with a figure eight follow-through. It also puts less line stress in by not making tight loops to pinch a single lead.
June 22nd, 2010 at 7:36 pm
ye i agree i thought it was really wierd wen he threaded it from bottom up
June 22nd, 2010 at 8:25 pm
also apparently have untied themselves a couple of times. don’t know the details, but seems like they’re more likely to fail